Chapter 2
Forms and Designs

Just as the Earth has been blessed with its beautiful gemstones, humanity, in turn, has the blessing of ideas, creativity, and crafstmanship.

This chapter showcases Cartier's fundamental quest for pure lines and forms, which is exemplified through several key themes: "Essential Lines" and "Spheres" that represent the perfect expression of natural lines; "New Architecture" dedicated to architectural elements in jewelry design; "Optics", or how movement can be brought into a piece of jewelry both visually and physically; "Harmony in Chaos" and "Beauty all Around", which celebrates Cartier's seeking of beauty wherever it might be, whether in accident or in fields seemingly unrelated to jewelry, such as couture or industry.

About the Exhibition Design
Explore a cave and discover
precious stone
Oyaishi (Oya Stone)

With its piled up Oyaishi (Oya stone) blocks, this exhibition space is designed to render the impression of the places we search for gemstones deep in the ground. Oyaishi, mined in Utsunomiya in the Tochigi Prefecture in Japan, is easy to process and fire-resistant. For this reason, it has historically been used as a building material for exterior walls and for storehouses in Japan. he rough appearance of the cracked surface conveys the passage of ancient time, as it is created by the solidification of magma over many years.

Traces of Design No07
Treasure Pieces

At the end of each chapter is a display of Korean and Japanese antiques with Cartier jewels, highlights of this exhibition. They were specially selected by Hiroshi Sugimoto among the treasures of his personal collection and, exclusive to this venue, from a Korean private collector. It is interesting to discover how these artworks resonate with each other - the unique aesthetics and historical value of Korean and Japanese antiques and the refined art of Cartier jewelry, rooted in European culture.

Bracelet

Cartier, 2015

White gold, one 189.345-carat opal, purple sapphires, blue sapphires, emeralds, diamonds
Cartier Collection

Raigo of Twenty-five Attendants by Hiroshi Sugimoto, 2023, Pigment print on Japanese paper, Private Collection

In Chapter 2, Sugimoto expresses the heavenly melody. The Negoro Japanese Lute was falling down from one of 25 Attendants of Amitabha in the heaven. They are the band playing the heavenly melody for welcoming the dead to the heaven, wearing divine ornaments. The brilliant opal bracelet also implies the fallen ornament from the attendant.

  • Traces of Design No08
    Essential Lines
    2020 1902
    Cartier pursues the essential through design. The art of its compositions lies wholly in the exactness of the proportions and the precision of the lines. The purity of shapes is determined by rigor and balance. A combination of gems and an interplay of stone cuts structure the design, setting a rhythm and revealing the composition’s power of abstraction. The vibrant movement and rhythm conveyed to a piece allows to interpret natural phenomena like water as it flows and ripples or smoke floating into the sky.
  • Traces of Design No09
    Spheres
    2010 1940
    Emblematic of Cartier’s repertoire of shapes, spheres amplify the volume of a design. Colored stones or gold beads emphasize the architectural dimension of jewelry, revealing an unexpected power to evoke everything from industrial forms to delectable berries.
  • Traces of Design No10
    New Architecture: Geometric| Organic
    2016 1930
    One of the most important themes in jewelry design is volume, something upon which Cartier continually elaborates. Architectural forms and details representative of every era have inspired structural elements of Cartier jewelry: for instance, the 1920s Art Deco interior design, the high-rise buildings towering over urban space, or the organic and curved shapes found in archicture today. Jewelry can resemble architecture in miniature, an actual scaled down construction made of precious materials.
  • Traces of Design No11
    Optics : Motion and Kinetics | Light & Transparency
    2014 1903
    Cartier has long pursued the theme of motion in its designs. How is jewelry freed from stasis and imbued with a sense of movement and play? Cartier has answered these questions with visual effects borrowed from kinetic art. Designs that skillfully utilize geometric forms, mirror-like structures, and contrasting colors generate optical illusions and impart a sense of motion to the viewer. This search for movement has led Cartier to create a series of playful jewelry pieces, composed with articulated elements that move with the finger or wrist of the wearer. Light and transparency is another standpoint from which we can analyze visual effects in Cartier designs, created notably by the use of rock crystal.
  • Traces of Design No12
    Harmony in Chaos : Accidents of Design | Accidents of Nature
    2017 1967
    Even accidents serve as an impetus for the design of Cartier creations, such as a watch warped in a car crash. The accident can actually be provoked by the designer in the interplay of proportions or dissymmetry, in order to find the balancing point where disorder becomes beauty. Accidents can also happen in gemstones, whose unique and unexpected shapes and colors can serve as the starting point for a design.
  • Traces of Design No13
    Beauty All Around : Industrial and Couture Motifs
    1999 1906
    Cartier's quest for beauty continues even to objects from everyday life, industrial goods, and other items rarely seen as connected with the world of jewelry. Separated from their original functions, they are given new and unconventional interpretations. The hidden charm of objects such as nails, screws, pipes, or belt buckles, ribbons and buttons can find its interpretation in a unique piece of jewelry.
Traces of Design No08
Essential Lines
Essential Lines

Cartier pursues the essential through design. The art of its compositions lies wholly in the exactness of the proportions and the precision of the lines. The purity of shapes is determined by rigor and balance. A combination of gems and an interplay of stone cuts structure the design, setting a rhythm and revealing the composition’s power of abstraction. The vibrant movement and rhythm conveyed to a piece allows to interpret natural phenomena like water as it flows and ripples or smoke floating into the sky.

Left
Top
Hair ornament
Cartier Paris, 1902

Platinum, diamonds

Cartier Collection

Right
Bottom
Necklace
Cartier, 2020

hite gold, five oval-shaped sapphires from Madagascar totaling 39.22 carats, lapis lazuli, diamonds
Collection of L.Y.H

Traces of Design No09
Spheres
Spheres

Emblematic of Cartier’s repertoire of shapes, spheres amplify the volume of a design. Colored stones or gold beads emphasize the architectural dimension of jewelry, revealing an unexpected power to evoke everything from industrial forms to delectable berries.

Left
Top
Bracelet
Cartier New York, circa 1940

Yellow gold, silver, sapphires

Cartier Collection

Right
Bottom
Bracelet
Cartier, 2010

Pink gold, pink opals, onyx, pink sapphires, black sapphires, diamonds

Cartier Collection

Traces of Design No10
New Architecture : Geometric | Organic
New Architecture : Geometric | Organic

One of the most important themes in jewelry design is volume, something upon which Cartier continually elaborates. Architectural forms and details representative of every era have inspired structural elements of Cartier jewelry: for instance, the 1920s Art Deco interior design, the high-rise buildings towering over urban space, or the organic and curved shapes found in archicture today. Jewelry can resemble architecture in miniature, an actual scaled down construction made of precious materials.

Left
Top
Bracelet
Cartier Paris, 1930

Platinum, rock crystal, diamonds

Cartier Collection

Right
Bottom
Ring
Cartier, 2016

Platinum, one 16.13-carat faceted fancy-cut tourmaline, black lacquer, diamonds

Cartier Collection

Traces of Design No11
Optics : Motion and Kinetics | Light & Transparency
Optics : Motion and Kinetics | Light & Transparency

Cartier has long pursued the theme of motion in its designs. How is jewelry freed from stasis and imbued with a sense of movement and play? Cartier has answered these questions with visual effects borrowed from kinetic art. Designs that skillfully utilize geometric forms, mirror-like structures, and contrasting colors generate optical illusions and impart a sense of motion to the viewer. This search for movement has led Cartier to create a series of playful jewelry pieces, composed with articulated elements that move with the finger or wrist of the wearer. Light and transparency is another standpoint from which we can analyze visual effects in Cartier designs, created notably by the use of rock crystal.

Left
Top
Plaque de cou (choker)
Cartier Paris, 1903

Platinum, pink gold, diamonds, black moiré

Cartier Collection

Right
Bottom
Bracelet
Cartier, 2014

White gold, black lacquer, diamonds

Cartier Collection

Traces of Design No12
Harmony in Chaos : Accidents of Design | Accidents of Nature
Harmony in Chaos : Accidents of Design | Accidents of Nature

Even accidents serve as an impetus for the design of Cartier creations, such as a watch wraped in a car crash. The accident can actually be provoked by the designer in the interplay of proportions or dissymmetry, in order to find the balancing point where disorder becomes beauty. Accidents can also happen in gemstones, whose unique and unexpected shapes and colors can serve as the starting point for a design.

Left
Top
Crash wristwatch
Cartier London, 1967

Yellow gold, pink gold, one sapphire, leather strap

Cartier Collection

Right
Bottom
Bracelet
Cartier, 2017

Pink gold, white gold, one 84.10-carat cushion-shaped green and pink tourmaline, one 8.01-carat cushion-shaped yellow-green sapphire from Madagascar, colored sapphires, brown diamonds, orange diamonds, white diamonds

Private Collection

Traces of Design No13
Beauty All Around : Industrial and Couture Motifs
Beauty All Around : Industrial and Couture Motifs

Cartier's quest for beauty continues ven to objects from everyday life, industrial goods, and other items rarely seen as connected with the world of jewelry. They are separated from their original functions and given new and unconventional interpretations. The hidden charm of objects such as nails, screws, pipes, or belt buckles, ribbons and buttons can find its interpretation in a unique piece of jewelry.

Left
Top
Lace ribbon brooch
Cartier Paris, 1906

Platinum, yellow gold, diamonds
The large motif is detachable.

Cartier Collection

Right
Bottom
Necklace
Cartier, 1999

Yellow gold

Cartier Collection